How to Measure
Good fit starts with knowing your measurements. Grab a soft tape measure and take these over a base layer — nothing too heavy. Keep the tape level and don't pull it tight.
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Chest: Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your chest, just under your arms.
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Waist: Find your natural waist — usually the narrowest point between your ribs and hips.
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Hips: Measure around the widest part of your seat.
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Inseam: From the crotch seam straight down to where you want the hem to fall.
Men's Tops & Outerwear
| Size |
Chest (in) |
Waist (in) |
Shoulder (in) |
| XS |
34–36 |
28–30 |
16.5 |
| S |
36–38 |
30–32 |
17 |
| M |
38–40 |
32–34 |
17.5 |
| L |
40–42 |
34–36 |
18.5 |
| XL |
42–44 |
36–38 |
19.5 |
| XXL |
44–46 |
38–40 |
20.5 |
Men's Denim
| Waist (in) |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
| Inseam (in) |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
30–34 |
Footwear
| US |
UK |
EU |
JP (cm) |
| 7 |
6 |
40 |
25 |
| 8 |
7 |
41 |
26 |
| 9 |
8 |
42 |
27 |
| 10 |
9 |
43 |
28 |
| 11 |
10 |
44 |
29 |
| 12 |
11 |
45 |
30 |
Fit Notes
Our Japanese selvedge denim is cut true to size with a natural rise — not too high, not too low. If you're sitting between sizes, go up for a lived-in feel or down if you prefer things closer to the body. Our boots run true to US sizing. Still not sure? Reach out at support@5thofaprl.com — we're happy to help you find the right fit.
Raw Denim Care & Shrinkage
Raw denim rewards patience and deliberate care. The choices you make in the first few months — how long you wear it before washing, how you wash it, how you dry it — determine the depth and sharpness of the fades you'll carry for years. Here's how to approach it.
Sanforized vs. Unsanforized: Know What You Have
The single most important question before you do anything with a new pair of raw jeans is whether the fabric is sanforized or unsanforized.
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Sanforized denim has been pre-shrunk at the mill. You can size true and skip any pre-soak. Minor additional shrinkage (1–2%) is possible after the first wash but manageable.
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Unsanforized (also called shrink-to-fit) denim has not been pre-shrunk. It will shrink — typically 1–2 inches in the waist and 1–3 inches in length — after its first soak or wash. This is expected and part of the garment's character.
If your product page doesn't explicitly state which it is, refer to the notes below or contact us before soaking.
Product-Specific Notes
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Samurai S511XX19ozII "Kiwami II" (19oz): Unsanforized, but has received one factory wash to remove initial shrinkage. Size true to your measurements — the major shrinkage has already occurred. Treat subsequent care as you would a sanforized jean: no pre-soak required.
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Levi's Made in Japan 1980s 501: Cold machine wash recommended. Tumble dry on medium. These are rinsed jeans — size true and follow the care label.
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Japan Blue J501, Sugar Cane 1947 Model, EDWIN Baker Pant: Specific sanforization and shrinkage data for these styles are not confirmed on the product page. When in doubt, contact us before soaking.
First Wear
Wear your raw denim as much as possible before the first wash. Most seasoned wearers wait a minimum of 3–6 months of regular wear. The creases, honeycombs, and whiskers that form during this break-in period are permanent — washing too early flattens them before they've had a chance to set.
First Wash
- Turn the jeans inside out.
- Hand wash or machine wash on a cold, gentle cycle with a small amount of mild detergent or dedicated denim wash. Avoid hot water — it accelerates fading and increases shrinkage risk.
- Do not use fabric softener or bleach.
Drying
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Air dry whenever possible. Hang by the waistband in a shaded area, never in direct sunlight, which can cause uneven or premature fading.
- If you must use a dryer, tumble dry on low heat for the minimum time needed to remove excess moisture, then air dry the rest of the way.
- Reshape the waistband and leg openings while still damp.
Ongoing Care
After the first wash, continue to wash infrequently — every 3–6 months of wear is a reasonable benchmark, though many wearers go longer. Spot clean when possible. The less you wash, the more contrast your fades will develop over time.
Questions about a specific pair? Email us at hello@5thofaprl.com — we're happy to walk you through it.